Baked jacket kūmara
Ashleigh Payne
As a method of cooking kūmara, baking stands out as hands-off and delicious. You don’t need to watch constantly or even be in the same room, which I appreciate as it frees up my time, hands and brain for other tasks. Baking also intensifies the sweetness and tender texture of kūmara, rendering it a comforting food. That comfort, for me, extends to its ties to Māoritanga: though initially it was not eaten widely by my tīpuna — it didn’t grow well in Te Urewera — preparing and consuming the now widely available kūmara facilitates a small, daily connection to my past and my people.
Serves 1
Cook time: 70 min
Kūmara of choice, 1 x 200-250g (approx) per person
Butter (or a flavoursome oil such as extra virgin olive)
Salt and pepper
Extras as you please
Preheat oven to 200°C. Scrub kūmara skin to remove any dirt, and remove blemishes.
Prick the skin to allow steam to escape.
Place kūmara on a lined baking tray and bake, 45-60 min. Cook time depends on kūmara size so be sure to check in — when done, the flesh will yield to touch (be careful — it will be hot!). When you can put a knife into the thickest part with no resistance, the kūmara should be ready, but a few more minutes won’t hurt if you’re uncertain.
To serve at its simplest: cut a cross in the top of each kūmara and gently squeeze the sides to reveal the inside. Top with plenty of butter (or alternative fat), salt and pepper.
If you want to make a meal of it, you can keep it simple with sour cream, bacon and cheese — a classic loaded (sweet) potato. To make it interesting, you can have fun assembling an Ottolenghi-style salad: on a platter, swirl a pool of something saucy — think romesco, hummus, toum. You could also have a grain base like tabbouleh. Halve or quarter kūmara and distribute. Drizzle or dollop with something creamy: crème fraîche, Greek yoghurt, or tahini dressing. Keep it plain or flavour with garlic, herbs, spices! Next time, try a bright salsa with zesty citrus! Sprinkle stuff on top to add flavour and texture: chilli, crumbled cheese, pink pickled onions, toasted nuts and handfuls of fresh herbs. Try something different each time.
Ashleigh Payne is a Tūhoe-Pākehā chef and baker based in Tāmaki Makaurau. As a mixed person alienated from their Indigenous heritage, they are now developing a relationship to Māoritanga via food.